Sunday, 19 February 2017

Week 5 - Research and Study on High-End Luxurious Brands

In this week's lesson, we went to Paragon to do a case study on luxurious brands. We observe the details, finishing and color scheme of the garments as well as the layout of the store.

BURBERRY



Burberry is a British luxury fashion house, established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry originally focusing on the development of outdoor attire.

The design and style of the garments from Burberry are mostly ultra-chic, classy with a combination of sass and sophistication


  • The Trench Coat
 Burberry's Signature Double-Breasted Trench Coat 

Burberry is known for its double-breasted Trench Coat. Thomas Burberry invented the Gabardine which is a breathable and waterproof fabric.

The Trench Coat first began as the Tielocken made from gabardine and it has no buttons but instead, is fastened with the belt and buckle. The Trench Coat is patented by Burberry in 1912.


The Tielocken
The Coat was worn in trenches of World War I by British soldiers in the early 20th century. Hence, the coat is named trench coat.

The Epaulette
Belt and Buckle Detail
The Notched Lapel

The D-ring Belt

In the past, the Epaulette displayed office's rank, while the D-rings on the belt were used to attach equipment like the grenade. It takes 4 hours to make one Burberry Trench Coat now.



  • The Checked Pattern


The red, white, black and camel check known as Nova is the trademark of Burberry. The checked pattern that lines all Burberry trenches is always aligned at a 45-degree angle. It's the lining of the trenches since 1924.





Poet Sleeve
Ornate Gold Metal Shank Button
Bishop Sleeve

When we went to the store, the layout was simple yet classy. The color scheme for the garment included mostly Navy, White, Brown and Honey. 


Interesting fact

1. It took 100 years for Burberry Gabardine Trench to be made available in more than 2 colors. It has only ever been available in tan and black. Since 2015, it has been available in parade red, honey, stone, black, nd navy.


2.Aquascutum is the creator of th first waterproof textile, not Burberry.




BALENCIAGA

Balenciaga is a French luxury fashion house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Spanish designer, born in the Basque Country, Spain. He opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. The House is now owned by the French multinational company Kering. 

The style of the garments in Balenciaga is feminine, chic, classy and bold as it is also very well known for creating avant-garde structural pieces.

Cristóbal Balenciaga is very well-respected in the fashion world for his amazing knowledge, skills, and professionalism. He is known as the master of many designers including Christian Dior. Unlike many designers, he is able to design, cut, assemble and sew a dress all on his own.

A true fashion innovator, Cristobal Balenciaga radically altered and revolutionized the fashionable silhouette of women in 1951. Contrary to the hourglass shape popularized by the Christian Dior’s 1947 New Look. Balenciaga went the opposite direction with his broad shoulders and boxy, column silhouette. Achieving a sublime softness of form by adding volume around the waist and going asymmetrical on the length, he created staple pieces like the egg coat, the semi-fitted suit and the peacock tail dress.

In 1953, he introduced the balloon jacket.


Balenciaga Balloon Jacket
In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.

Balenciaga Tunic Dress


In 1958, he invented the baby doll dress.

Courtesy of Archives Balenciaga, Paris
Many of the garment that he had introduced like the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957) did not have a discernible waist, This is probably the reason why Balenciaga's iconic trademark and concept is about the space between the body and the fabric, boxy volumes and fluid lines.



Floral Printed Blouse with Crystal Pleats details on the collar

When we visited the store, the garments are mostly in bold solid colors like red. It could be due to the festive Chinese New Year Period. There weren't many prints but there were some. The prints are very colorful, floral and detailed. We also noticed that Balenciaga likes to use pretty heavy fabrics for their garment.



The Culottes 

Shirring on the cuff of the sleeve

Accordion Pleated Skirt
Blouse with Butterfly Sleeves and Tie Collar


Through the study of these brands, we have a better understanding of the history behind these brands and have learned the use of various details on a garment. We learned the importance of carefully observing the details and finishing of a garment to understand the reason behind its pricing etc. Most importantly, we learned to identify the trademarks and signature looks of various luxury brands.

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