Monday 6 February 2017

Week 4 - Technical Flats, Pleats, Gathers and Tucks

This week we learn the importance of technical flats in fashion. It is widely used in the industry to communicate design in detail. It is a flat 2D drawing and should indicate all the seam, darts, fastenings(e.g. zipper) and construction details.



Photo: Courtesy of Love and Bravery


Technical Flat Drawing of a Shift Dress


Pleats

  A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.

  • Sunray Pleat
Image result for sunray pleated skirt pinterest
J.W.ANDERSON Sunray Pleated Wool Miniskirt 
  • Accordion pleats
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ZARA US accordion pleat skirt
  • Knife Pleats

Image result for knife pleated skirt pinterest
Photo: Courtesy of Pinterest 

  • Box Pleats



  • Crystal Pleats
Image result for Crystal pleat fashion
Photo: Courtesy of Pinterest
  • Inverted Pleat
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Michael Kors Pleat Front Dress 
  • Kick Pleat
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  • Top-stitched Pleat

  • Godet Pleat

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Photo: Courtesy of Pinterest

Tucks

Pleats sewn into place are called tucks. In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place.



  •  Spaced Tucks - designs that have a space between each tuck


  • Blind Tucks - each tuck overlaps or touches the next
Image result for blind tucks
Photo: Courtesy of Colette Blog
  • Pin Tucks - narrow tucks

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Photo: Courtesy of  Pinterest

Gathers

Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. This creates volume to the piece of fabric.


Gathers
  • Ruffles & Frills
Rufflesfrill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or another textile as a form of trimming.


Valentino Spring/Summer 2011 Haute Couture
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 RTW

  • Flounce
Flounce is a particular type of fabric manipulation that creates a similar look but with less bulk. It creates a softer look.

Valentino S 2011 Haute Couture
Related image
 Lucian Matis F/W 2013



  • Ruching
Ruching is a gathered overlay. The fabric is gathered on two parallel sides and stitched to an underlay. It's often done in sheers, like chiffon.

Burberry Prorsum Mod Dress with Shoulder Ruching
Burberry Prorsum Mod Dress with Shoulder Ruching
  • Shirring
Shirring is a gathering technique done with elastic thread, which creates a stretchy garment.

Image result for shirring dress
Photo: Courtesy of  BurdaStyle.com


 
Dress length, Sleeve length, Necklines etc
After this lesson, I have a better understanding on skirt length, neckline and sleeve length.
I have also noted that cocktail length is above the knee, tea- length is 3 to 4 inches below the knee and ballerina length is almost touching the ankle unlike maxi length which is touching the ankle.
         

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