Week 13- Presentation of the Collection

This week, our group presentation our collection " Equestrian Chic"

We are making women Pre-Fall Ready-to-Wear collection. We are a mid-tier brand, targeting South East Asia women from aged 20-35 years old. The price of our garments will range from $30- $200. This collection has the feel of eccentricity, rusticness, and gracefulness. We chose Zara and Mango as our competitor to research on and relate to.

The Moodboard

We adapted trending style and accessories into our collection. We also took inspiration from Burberry and Balenciaga for the column silhouette of the garments. We took inspiration from this two brand because previously we did the brand research and analysis on these two brands.

Trending Style this A/W17/18 Season

Inspiration from Burberry and Balenciaga

These are the trending colors that we think suit the theme. Since we are inspired by nature and equestrian and it is a pre-fall collection, we are looking for warm, earthy tones. 

We felt that we could have improved on our fashion curating whereby we should have better describe our looks and garment in the collection. For the presentation part, we should have placed the technical flats side by side to the looks instead of separating it into two different slides. It is for easy reference during the presentation.

Fashion Curating

Week 9 - Technical Flats

In this lesson, we are taught to draw technical flats using the croquis template. Ms. Debra again emphasized the importance of including details like topstitching and darts when drawing the technical flats. The use of the croquis template enables us to draw the technical flats accurately and proportionately.

Here are my 20 technical flats.

Week 8 - Design Development

In this week's lesson, Ms. Debra taught us on the vital and essential aspects when designing a collection. 

In the process of designing, first of all, we have to be very clear of our target market/audience. Thus, it important that we do extensive research on the demographic (age group, gross salary, hobbies etc.) of the people in the region we are targeting. Depending on the season we are designing for the collection, it's good to research on the climate of the targeted region/country as well as the weather and temperature will also indirectly determine the garment people prefer to wear.  

In terms of branding, we have to know if we are a luxury, high-end brand or a mid-tier brand etc. The price of the garments has to be reflected in the design, finishing and fabric use for the garments. We have to research and investigate on our competitors(other brands) too, whereby the style, price of their garments and their targeted market is relatively similar to ours.

In terms of inspiration, we have to go deeper into the topic we chose. We cannot just think about the obvious elements of it but the value, spirit behind it and the little intricate details that people do not usually take notice. At such, we can then create a good concept for our collection. Our inspiration will eventually influence the design and color palette of the collection. However, it's also critical that we do trend research on the textile, colors, styling and silhouette. We have to carefully select and incorporate trending elements that suit the theme into our collection so that we can better attract buyers. However, we should not totally follow trends and neglect the distinctive elements in the theme that inspired that collection. 

Lastly for in designing, we have to think about the practicality of our design for our targeted consumers. We need to understand how we are going to assemble and construct the garments such that it resemble the design. A good design should sell the whole look whereby people are attracted to buy the whole outfit rather than just individual garments.

I showed some of my design to my group mates. They thought that they could possibly adapt it but not use the whole design as they felt that there could have been more interesting details and there is not enough essence of rebellious in it. 

Flare Sleeve, High-Low hem tielocken dress coat

Wasp Waist look inspired the Christian Dior's New Look

Double-breasted, sleeveless coat with patterned shorts and knee-high boots
Inspired by Burberry

Cape coat with Flare Skirt

Week 7- Launch of Collection Project

In this week, we have to start applying what we have learned from the past few weeks into designing a collection. We have to brainstorm about our theme, our inspiration, our targeted audience etc. From a big theme, we do research and select out unique elements from the theme to incorporate into the design of our garments. We also have to produce interesting details and patterns that reflect on the essence of our theme. We are required to have 20 looks.

After discussions, my group is truly inspired by equestrians and their connection with horses and nature. We would like to design a pre-fall, women ready-to-wear collection. Hence, we have decided to set that as our theme. Before I start designing, I made a mood-board out of my imagination on how I think the color scheme and overall feel of the collection will be like. 

Week 6 - Reflection on the Presentation

This week we presented our work we did for last week.  After listening to the comments from Ms. Debra to all the groups, I felt that there are a few things we could have done better. 

•  We should have taken note of the prices of the garments so that we can compare the price with the other brands. Most importantly, we can study the relationship between the price and the finishing, quality or details of the garment so that we understand why the garment is priced that expensively.
• We should have made use of what we learned in Cultural Context. For example, we can actually compare certain design or detail of a garment to similar ones in the baroque or rococo era. We can also name certain details that are actually adaptations from the past and identify the person who made it famous. 

Eg.

This is a Miu Miu bomber jacket and it is unique as most bomber jacket has a ribbed collar but this bomber jacket has a semi-spread collar.  

Miu Miu Bomber Jacket

Amelia Earhart in her Bomber Jacket

After that, we can actually go ahead and share more interesting infomations like the bomber jacket is actually first made famous by Amelia Mary Earhart who was an American aviation pioneer and author. She was the first female aviator to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean. She always wears the bomber jacket and since people looked up to her at that time, they eventually followed her style of dressing.

One of the group also mentioned about the eschelle, a series of bows down the center front of a garment.

Meadham Kirchhoff SS13

This is actually a style brought back or adapted from the Rococo period. The échelle or eschelle was a series of bows tied down the front of the stomacher, decreasing in size from the neck to the waist in that period. This style was introduced by French trendsetter Madame de Pompadour (1721–1764), the mistress of French King Louis XV (1710–1774), and was quickly copied throughout Europe as part of a gown style called robe à la française. It is also seen on the dress of Marie Antoinette.

robe à la française

 Madame de Pompadour

 Marie Antoinette

I guess that's the example how we should have applied what we have learned from other modules in our presentation.

• We should make full use of the resources(WGSN, Library Books) we have and utilize them in our work. For example, one group actually made use of the information on WGSN in their presentation to talk about the Spring/Summer 2017 trending color scheme. At the same time, they compared it to the colors of the garment they had seen in the store of the brand they were researching on.

There is so much more we can do to improve on our presentation. We could have been more flexible and creative. We could have taken into consideration many other things that are related to what we are presenting in order to make our presentation more interesting and informative. 

Week 5 - Research and Study on High-End Luxurious Brands

In this week's lesson, we went to Paragon to do a case study on luxurious brands. We observe the details, finishing and color scheme of the garments as well as the layout of the store.

BURBERRY

Burberry is a British luxury fashion house, established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry originally focusing on the development of outdoor attire.

The design and style of the garments from Burberry are mostly ultra-chic, classy with a combination of sass and sophistication

• The Trench Coat

 Burberry's Signature Double-Breasted Trench Coat 

Burberry is known for its double-breasted Trench Coat. Thomas Burberry invented the Gabardine which is a breathable and waterproof fabric.

The Trench Coat first began as the Tielocken made from gabardine and it has no buttons but instead, is fastened with the belt and buckle. The Trench Coat is patented by Burberry in 1912.

The Tielocken

The Coat was worn in trenches of World War I by British soldiers in the early 20th century. Hence, the coat is named trench coat.

The Epaulette

Belt and Buckle Detail

The Notched Lapel

The D-ring Belt

In the past, the Epaulette displayed office's rank, while the D-rings on the belt were used to attach equipment like the grenade. It takes 4 hours to make one Burberry Trench Coat now.

• The Checked Pattern

The red, white, black and camel check known as Nova is the trademark of Burberry. The checked pattern that lines all Burberry trenches is always aligned at a 45-degree angle. It's the lining of the trenches since 1924.

Poet Sleeve

Ornate Gold Metal Shank Button

Bishop Sleeve

When we went to the store, the layout was simple yet classy. The color scheme for the garment included mostly Navy, White, Brown and Honey. 


Interesting fact

1. It took 100 years for Burberry Gabardine Trench to be made available in more than 2 colors. It has only ever been available in tan and black. Since 2015, it has been available in parade red, honey, stone, black, nd navy.

2.Aquascutum is the creator of th first waterproof textile, not Burberry.

BALENCIAGA

Balenciaga is a French luxury fashion house founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Spanish designer, born in the Basque Country, Spain. He opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. The House is now owned by the French multinational company Kering. 

The style of the garments in Balenciaga is feminine, chic, classy and bold as it is also very well known for creating avant-garde structural pieces.

Cristóbal Balenciaga is very well-respected in the fashion world for his amazing knowledge, skills, and professionalism. He is known as the master of many designers including Christian Dior. Unlike many designers, he is able to design, cut, assemble and sew a dress all on his own.

A true fashion innovator, Cristobal Balenciaga radically altered and revolutionized the fashionable silhouette of women in 1951. Contrary to the hourglass shape popularized by the Christian Dior’s 1947 New Look. Balenciaga went the opposite direction with his broad shoulders and boxy, column silhouette. Achieving a sublime softness of form by adding volume around the waist and going asymmetrical on the length, he created staple pieces like the egg coat, the semi-fitted suit and the peacock tail dress.

In 1953, he introduced the balloon jacket.

Balenciaga Balloon Jacket

In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.

Balenciaga Tunic Dress

In 1958, he invented the baby doll dress.

Courtesy of Archives Balenciaga, Paris

Many of the garment that he had introduced like the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957) did not have a discernible waist, This is probably the reason why Balenciaga's iconic trademark and concept is about the space between the body and the fabric, boxy volumes and fluid lines.

Floral Printed Blouse with Crystal Pleats details on the collar

When we visited the store, the garments are mostly in bold solid colors like red. It could be due to the festive Chinese New Year Period. There weren't many prints but there were some. The prints are very colorful, floral and detailed. We also noticed that Balenciaga likes to use pretty heavy fabrics for their garment.

The Culottes 

Shirring on the cuff of the sleeve

Accordion Pleated Skirt

Blouse with Butterfly Sleeves and Tie Collar

Through the study of these brands, we have a better understanding of the history behind these brands and have learned the use of various details on a garment. We learned the importance of carefully observing the details and finishing of a garment to understand the reason behind its pricing etc. Most importantly, we learned to identify the trademarks and signature looks of various luxury brands.

Week 4 - Technical Flats, Pleats, Gathers and Tucks

This week we learn the importance of technical flats in fashion. It is widely used in the industry to communicate design in detail. It is a flat 2D drawing and should indicate all the seam, darts, fastenings(e.g. zipper) and construction details.

Photo: Courtesy of Love and Bravery

Technical Flat Drawing of a Shift Dress

Pleats

  A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.

• Sunray Pleat

J.W.ANDERSON Sunray Pleated Wool Miniskirt 

• Accordion pleats

ZARA US accordion pleat skirt

• Knife Pleats

Photo: Courtesy of Pinterest 

• Box Pleats

• Crystal Pleats

Photo: Courtesy of Pinterest

• Inverted Pleat

Michael Kors Pleat Front Dress 

• Kick Pleat

• Top-stitched Pleat

• Godet Pleat

Photo: Courtesy of Pinterest

Tucks

Pleats sewn into place are called tucks. In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place.

•  Spaced Tucks - designs that have a space between each tuck

• Blind Tucks - each tuck overlaps or touches the next

Photo: Courtesy of Colette Blog

• Pin Tucks - narrow tucks

Photo: Courtesy of  Pinterest

Gathers

Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. This creates volume to the piece of fabric.

Gathers

• Ruffles & Frills

Ruffles, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or another textile as a form of trimming.

Valentino Spring/Summer 2011 Haute Couture

Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 RTW

• Flounce

Flounce is a particular type of fabric manipulation that creates a similar look but with less bulk. It creates a softer look.

Valentino S 2011 Haute Couture

 Lucian Matis F/W 2013

• Ruching

Ruching is a gathered overlay. The fabric is gathered on two parallel sides and stitched to an underlay. It's often done in sheers, like chiffon.

Burberry Prorsum Mod Dress with Shoulder Ruching

• Shirring

Shirring is a gathering technique done with elastic thread, which creates a stretchy garment.

Photo: Courtesy of  BurdaStyle.com

 

Dress length, Sleeve length, Necklines etc

After this lesson, I have a better understanding on skirt length, neckline and sleeve length.
I have also noted that cocktail length is above the knee, tea- length is 3 to 4 inches below the knee and ballerina length is almost touching the ankle unlike maxi length which is touching the ankle.